Room with a view, plus special service and quality seafood
by Ann Parker
"Santa Cruz Sentinel" June 18, 2008
Excerpt
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When Rosemary and I lunched at Johnny's Harborside recently, we had the best seat in the house. And at this site, with its wall-to-wall windows and picturesque view of Santa Cruz harbor, that's saying something.

Our waiter, Dan, met the high standard set by that view. Service is a major part of any restaurant experience; Dan earned high marks for his easy yet efficient presence, engaging attitude and quick sense of humor. He also provided helpful menu input, responded promptly to requests and brought our dishes with perfect timing. "Do you think he does takeout?" I asked Rosemary.

Johnny's features a small but interesting wine list, many available both by the glass and bottle, as well as a full bar and several sakes. In honor of the Jimmy Buffett-esque setting, we ordered Hornitos top-shelf Margaritas $8 that arrived in record time, made exactly to order. We happily clinked our icy, salt-rimmed glasses.

When Dan informed us that the lobster and shrimp spring rolls weren't available, we made do with six Virginia Hood Canal Oysters on the half shell $12 and Shrimp Lettuce Wraps $10. Perched on a bed of ice, the oysters were subtly flavored and plump, but I found them a little too creamy. This characteristic often indicates the onset of spawning and is a matter of taste rather than a health concern.

Our four lettuce wraps were cups of sweet butter lettuce cradling avocado, bay shrimp and yummy Asian slaw with cucumber aioli; the combination of lush shrimp with cool, rich avocado was delightful. Rosemary commented, "Bay shrimp aren't usually this big and fresh-tasting." Our Harborside Salads $6 arrived on chilled plates, always a plus. More sophisticated than most house salads, these included delicate baby greens decorated with crisp little grapes, candied walnuts and outstanding rosemary balsamic dressing.

Johnny's offers several signature entrees including lamb, steak and vegetable Napoleon, but we went with the "Fresh Catch Your Way." The diner chooses between several fish and shellfish options, specifies the cooking style sauteed, blackened or broiled and adds accompaniments ranging from complex, puttanesca-type Mediterranean topping to "Simply Fish." We ordered the simplest version of fresh halibut, broiled and lightly seasoned $25, market price. Dan promised us confidently, "If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you."

On the Waterfront
A warm welcome, spacious interior and atmospheric vistas make Johnny's a can't-lose harborside destination.
by Christina Waters
“Metro Active" May 7, 2008
Excerpt
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Only a visitor from Mars--or an American under the age of 30--would have been surprised to see three grown women laughing and crying over the phrase, "The plane, boss, the plane!" The other diners last week at Johnny's Harborside probably figured that we'd simply been overserved.

Actually, we were attempting to explain the phrase to our British dinner partner Emma, and that little guy in the white tuxedo and the gracefully aging Ricardo Montalban, about whom Casey confessed to having had "many impure thoughts." It turned out to be a classic case of "you had to be there." Fantasy Island just doesn't translate, no matter how polite Emma tried to be.

The advance word was good about Johnny's Monday night three-course special. If $20 could buy us an appetizer, entree, dessert and a glass of wine, we wanted in. Emma diplomatically agreed that in the interest of reviewing she would try one of the a la carte items from the dinner menu. So we were three specials and an a la carte. Nursing her glass of off-dry Firestone Riesling ($7), she listened in amazement as we tried to explain why Tattoo always wore a tux as he pointed up toward the heavens yelling about the plane.

A basket of memorable sourdough arrived swiftly and we all metaphorically jumped in. Crusty and delicious, it was so good that we didn't even mind having to peel foil wrappers off the squares of butter. Susan and I were still chuckling over "the plane" as we began on beautiful salads of baby spinach and Gorgonzola, while Casey made quick work of her lobster bisque laced with toasted onions.

Emma was enchanted by the view from this upstairs dining room. And for good reason. Rowing sculls glided through the forest of bobbing masts as the water turned indigo and magenta in the setting sun. Though Johnny's full bar faces inward, the dining room is lined with glass and almost every table affords views to linger over. The salads were terrific, every single leaf of crisp baby spinach shimmered with a blackberry vinaigrette. And almost hidden in the dome of spinach was a core of Gorgonzola. Lots of Gorgonzola. No one in her right mind would complain about "too much Gorgonzola." But it was a lot.

Desserts were prettily decorated with rosettes of what might have been whipped cream. We all agreed that the tiny cheesecake topped with fresh strawberries was the winner. The bread pudding would have prospered with some moistening agent. Hard sauce, perhaps?
Smart presentation, tasty appetizers, plenty of fresh bread and one of the finest views in town. The Monday three-course, $20 prix fixe dinner at Johnny's just might be what Tattoo would describe as--"the deal, boss, the deal!"

On the Waterfront
A new seafood house docks at the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor
by Christina Waters
“The Good Times" Oct 6-12 edition
Excerpt
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The new Johnny's Harborside opened in the summer, replacing the salsa fiesta that was once Rosa's Rosticerria. The name of the game now is simple and obvious. You've got a dining spot right on the water, overlooking all the yachts and the bay beyond. So you go with a straight-ahead seafood restaurant concept—fried calamari, crab cakes, crab Louies, fresh catch of the day...

One of the house signatures at the new Johnny's Harborside is having your choice of daily fresh fish—last week it was halibut, swordfish, ahi and salmon—done in one of various styles. Mediterranean, for example, showcases your seafood selection—broiled halibut was my choice—in a balsamic reduction, with sun dried tomato tapenade and roasted potatoes. A Pacific Rim treatment, on the other hand, surrounds your fresh catch with black sesame rice cakes, grilled pineapple salsa and a spicy coconut/peanut sauce...

[The view] of the sky growing pink in the twilight was beautiful, and the lights twinkled on the boats bobbing in the foreground. There's something about watching the light changing on the water that is deeply soothing. And the wine doesn't hurt either.

[Our] entrees arrived with flourish and loads of visual dazzle. The ahi dish offered not one but two large slices of ahi, drizzled with a pea-green wasabi soy sauce. Also on the plate was a giant-sized spicy tuna handroll covered with a tempura batter and then sliced into two huge cylinders. The handroll concept was quite inventive though the interior fish did not look or taste like ahi. More of the bright orange mango salsa danced around any bare portions of the plate that remained. Leslie was fascinated with the riot of colors—orange and chartreuse—in this very lavish presentation. My halibut was equally large in portion, very moistly broiled and came with a cascade of crimson sun dried tomato tapenade plus a field of diced squashes and two long potato wedges...

Oddly enough the destination dish we found at Johnny's—and every restaurant needs at least one destination dish—was our dessert of an exceptional, textbook crème brûlée ($5.95). Served at room temperature so that the custardy interior tasted truly eggy and homemade, the beautiful dessert was presented in a large oval porcelain baking dish, topped with a burnt sugar glaze that was stained glass window thin. We were enchanted, and happily shared every last trace of it over cups of strong coffee.

The window tables at Johnny's offer a dreamy view of the boats—great spot to spend a sunset dinner.